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Post by dave on Jan 10, 2016 22:27:25 GMT -5
Good evening....I would like to get a MTL F7 B unit that is a dummy but if I remember right, they are not free rolling at all. Does anyone have an easy way for these to free roll? Thanks for your help.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Jan 11, 2016 6:00:08 GMT -5
Good evening....I would like to get a MTL F7 B unit that is a dummy but if I remember right, they are not free rolling at all. Does anyone have an easy way for these to free roll? Thanks for your help. Hi Dave, As I recall, MTL's F7 B dummy units are mechanically the same as their A units, but they leave out the motor and the gears. So they do "free roll" as much as can be expected from trucks and wheels that were designed to be powered in stead of pulled. I think they are also heavy because the metal split frame is still in the B unit. (This is all from my memory as I don't spend too much time with the MTL B units - go figure!) Maybe this is a good Rapid Prototype project for someone? Create a new hollow chassis and trucks that will roll with needle point wheels? If you design it, shapeways could print it. It's just a thought. Best, -Rob(A) AZL
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Post by emaley on Jan 11, 2016 11:11:57 GMT -5
The trucks are the point of drag. Not sure there is much you can do there. The chassis is lighter than the A unit, but the axles drag in the slots in the trucks. Just too much surface area to roll well. I did find mine had a burr on the axle that added to the drag. Maybe polish the axle and the journals grooves on the trucks. A new chassis and trucks is probably the answer.
Trey
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Post by markm on Jan 11, 2016 15:31:00 GMT -5
The dummy F7s I have (both A and B) don't have the body casting and the trucks attach to the "floor" using a keeper ring. The issue as already mentioned are the trucks. However, the drag isn't too bad. Here's some data I took a few years back. The drag is about the same as a stock AZL heavyweight car. Out of curiosity, why the interest in a dummy B? Mark
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Post by dave on Jan 11, 2016 16:43:03 GMT -5
Only interest in dummy B is that they didn't do a powered B in the Burlington grey back scheme.
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Post by tjdreams on Jan 11, 2016 18:05:33 GMT -5
I just happen to have one on my work bench that I'm tuning up for a customer MTL " F& B dummies have a flat base with the trucks half's (Gimbals) held in place with a plastic keeper washer The Gimbals, geared wheel sets, and Side Frames are identical to those used on the powered units. After removing the body and the 2 screws holding the side frames in place you can see that the journals in the gimbals anything but smooth and typically out of round as well. use a small round file to get rid of any burrs & clean up the journals. While you have it open check to see if the wheel set are in gauge and that they will roll freely with out binding or rubbing the gimbals. Check for out of round and or off center axles. Check the side frames for burrs add one drop of lube to each journal re assemble and enjoy. For a small Fee I can preform this service as well as install Glens Wheel Wipers on both the powered and non powered MTL F7 A & B units as well as tune up (HOS) Marklin's locomotives Please contact me off the forum at "dave . wolf 64 at yahoo . com" (no spaces) if interested. David
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Post by dave on Jan 11, 2016 22:54:21 GMT -5
David,
Email has been sent.
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Post by burlingtonroute on Jan 25, 2016 15:39:29 GMT -5
You can put a B shell on an A unit, just takes a bit of bit of filing and sanding in places. I have a nice ABA CB&Q set up. I also had it sent off to a German expert that DCC'd them wired them and put in short bars where the couplings are. I also have some nice wagon wheel antennae, if I can ever find a good over head picture of exactly where they were mounted. (I have extras if you are interested) Powered B unit is really the best way to go, no drag and extra pulling power.
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Post by catt on Jan 25, 2016 19:03:32 GMT -5
Not having any f units but considering getting some I am wondering if the powered (geared) truck is made like the dummy trucks.
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Post by tjdreams on Jan 25, 2016 19:21:41 GMT -5
MTL's F7 Powered and Dummy trucks on Both the A and B Units are all the same. The Side frames/bottom, Gimbal half's, and the wheel & axle w/gear are all interchangeable.
David
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Post by catt on Jan 26, 2016 7:01:30 GMT -5
David, I can assume that your little trick posted up above would be beneficial for the powered As right.
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Post by tjdreams on Jan 26, 2016 15:37:21 GMT -5
Yes it works on most any locomotive powered or not. Just take your time and only file/cut away any burs or excess flash. over filing can cause other problems. Clean out any gunk dust and dirt and add one drop of oil to each axle on your locomotives
Do not over oil. Less is More. Oil attracts dust and dirt which will gum up the works The more oil you use the faster it will gum up things which equals you having to clean and tune-up your stuff more often.
David
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Post by tjdreams on Jan 31, 2016 20:48:51 GMT -5
For those who asked about putting power pickup leads in the MTL F7 dummies how's this look?
The base was drilled and tapped in each corner to mount isolating blocks. Each block was hand cut to fit, drilled to match then cross drilled and tapped for a 2nd screw to hold a custom made contact wiper and a ringlet w/ feed wire. I tested it using a super bright led connected to the wires and pulled it behind a F7 The Led stayed lit for the most part But even after thoroughly cleaning the track the Led would occasionally dim and/or flicker as it moved along the track.
I still need to pickup a sound decoder to test it with. But I think with the addition of some of Glen's wheel wipers (if I can get more) and some keep alive capacitor's on the decoder it will work just fine.
The hard part is going to be shoehorning the sound decoder, capacitor's, and speaker all under the shell
David
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tai
New Member
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Post by tai on Jan 31, 2016 23:23:54 GMT -5
That looks like an awesome project David. Please keep us informed with your progress.
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Post by Commodore on Jan 31, 2016 23:29:50 GMT -5
Quote " The hard part is going to be shoehorning the sound decoder, capacitor's, and speaker all under the shell"
The longer carbody is why I prefer the E-8.
Can this be done with an E-8 B ?
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