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Post by gyroflyer on Jun 24, 2012 4:15:22 GMT -5
Being somewhat new to Z and having been at the 2012 Z convention in Denver, I had learned so much by actually seeing Z up close and personal for the first time. It is beyond amazing on what can be done with such a small scale.
I am going to do a small 2'x4' layout for practice before hitting a large one. I am using Peco flex track all around and would like to get some opinions on tacking it down.
I also plan solder the joints but remembered an article Rob Kluz wrote about not soldering every joint due to expanding in certain climates.
Also, being from Montana, do they make Z scale sheep and other farm animals?
Your advice is much appreciated.
Mark
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Post by domi on Jun 24, 2012 9:01:51 GMT -5
For tracklaying, I'm using white glue, and I secure track with heavy unused books until it dries.
Dom
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Post by Rob Albritton on Jun 24, 2012 10:42:25 GMT -5
For tracklaying, I'm using white glue, and I secure track with heavy unused books until it dries. Dom I agree with Dom - white glue works well and you can take it back up with out damage by simply getting it wet. I use "N" scale split cork roadbed (cut about 25% out of the middle with a carpet knife and a metal ruler so it is the right width for Z) and then use Liquid Nails to attach the cork to my sub surface (plywood or pink foam) Also, lastly, consider some of the new snap track like Rokuhan. It works really, really well, and they have a wider variety of radius than Marklin or Micro-Trains, Rokuhan 245mm and 270mm are GREAT for double track main line, but I would not use anything less than 195mm radius as thats the minimum we design for our AZL products and I would really like to have you as a customer! |
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Post by zscaler on Jun 24, 2012 10:48:50 GMT -5
I have used CA glue between the ties (every 2" or so) for all my Z Bend modules. It dries a lot faster and can be released by slipping a putty knife between the ties and the cork. You could also use Acetone to release the CA. Ballasting is what is really going to hold the track down. Then you get into the 50/50 mix of white glue/water versus matte medium debate on holding the ballast down.
Now the problem with either way of holding the ballast together is that the water in either system can release the white glue used to hold the track down. CA will not release from water saturation.
I prefer Woodland Scenic Cement straight from the bottle after a light mist of "wet water" to break surface tension.
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Post by hobbycraftsnmore on Jun 24, 2012 14:21:00 GMT -5
I use Itty Bitty Line cork and glue it down with wood glue to plywood.
Then I nail the track down with Marklin nails (I do file a point on the nail if it isn't right). I would check the track to make sure it is right and trains run well on it.
The better the track work the more you will enjoy running train and have less problems.
Then solder. After I solider I then weather the track and ties and clean agian and test.
Then I use the Woodland Secenics secnic cement (full strenght), I brush it around the track and inbetween the ties. I Use first then you don't have to break the surface tention and the cemet is right on the cork full strenth then I sprinkal the fine balist around the track and add more secnic cement after I ajust the balist ( becareful around switches). Then I work it the way I want it let dry and vacume and clean track.
After that I use rite dye to weather the balist;depend where used.
Anouther trick I learned after you are all done and have clean and vacume many time to remove lose material. Carfuly go over balist with scenic cement and after it dyries when you clean you will stop to losen the balist. ( wiat a year after done to do this)
ps I use white glue full strenght for may grass
PSS It never hurt to soler 2 set of wire to your track for powe rto keep power flow even and if one wire ever brecks you still have a seconary
Kevin
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Post by gyroflyer on Jun 24, 2012 17:53:43 GMT -5
Thank you all for the replies. Robert, the only problem I have about using other track is that I have been collecting the Peco flex for some time now. I'm stuck.LOL!! Obviously I went with this track due to the length.
I was just looking and found little holes on the backside of the track but they didn’t go all the way through. I took a small pin and was able to punch through. Wow, never noticed that before. I take it there is a small enough nail to go through these?
Thanks again for all the advice.
Mark
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Post by hobbycraftsnmore on Jun 24, 2012 22:25:50 GMT -5
Mark the Marklin Nails will work in those hole
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Post by gyroflyer on Jun 24, 2012 23:27:12 GMT -5
Excellent, thanks hobby.
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Post by gprose on Jun 25, 2012 22:15:32 GMT -5
One other track securing option Rokuhan is offering is track fasteners. They are available for single track and double track configurations. Unfortunately, they can only be used with Rokuhan track.
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Joes
Fireman
Posts: 84
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Post by Joes on Jun 28, 2012 20:59:45 GMT -5
For securing MT sectional track, I used a hot glue gun. Works well and is simple to remove with a putty knife.
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Post by gyroflyer on Jun 30, 2012 10:20:33 GMT -5
Now just out of curiosity, with the way some of you are suggesting to "glue" the track down, are we still talking about flex track?
Mark
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Post by zscaler on Jun 30, 2012 12:41:34 GMT -5
Cork, flex and sectional for me.
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Post by gyroflyer on Jul 1, 2012 0:38:20 GMT -5
Thanks Zscaler. By the way, I really enjoyed the ZoCal setup in Denver. Very impressive.
Mark
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fredb
New Member
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Post by fredb on Jul 11, 2012 0:07:50 GMT -5
I guess you secure the animals the same way with glue. In Denver I picked up cows and sheep and many others are available.
Fred
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Post by gyroflyer on Jul 13, 2012 3:48:22 GMT -5
Hey, if this is the same Fred I'm thinking of, you know what I'm talking about when I mention the Montana sheep.LOL!! I believe you were part of it.
Mark
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