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Post by gyroflyer on Feb 17, 2014 17:57:02 GMT -5
Ok, another question on turnouts. I just saw that Rokuhan has a conversion for other brands of track. I asked about Wright turnouts before and now see another option. Rokuhan has the plastic roadbed, which I've never been a big fan of due to the difficulty of putting ballast over it. What is the trick to ballasting over the plastic?
Any advise is once again appreciated.
Mark
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Post by modelwarships on Feb 17, 2014 21:54:01 GMT -5
One thing to be especially careful with is ballast around the switch mechanism. I ballast up to, but not on the area around the slide switch and the points. before you add any adhesives around the turnout, make note of where the slide mechanism is. If you get any glue or adhesive too close, you will have to disassemble and clean the slide switch.
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Post by markm on Feb 17, 2014 23:15:00 GMT -5
Mark,
What I like to do to roadbed track is scrub the roadbed with a solution of water and dishwasher detergent to remove any remaining mold release on the roadbed (usual suspect when paint and glue don't stick). Then I use a 1:20 solution of India ink and alcohol to stain the roadbed a bit. Paint the rails rust, add a diffuse line of Grimy Black down the center.Lay the track and add ballast with wet water and glue. My main interest in ballast is just the outside edges, enough to add real texture to the roadbed.
Timothy is right about taking care around the switch mechanism and I have several "frozen" turnouts to prove it!
Hope this helps.
Mark
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Post by gyroflyer on Feb 18, 2014 4:28:52 GMT -5
Man, I feel like such a newbie asking these questions. I never had these concerns with N scale. Sorry for saying the N word. Anyway, you secure the ballast with wet water and glue as though if it were cork? Ok, not being a wise guy here but it will actually stay secure on the plastic?
By the way, what is your opinion on the Rokuhan turnouts?
Thanks again all. I'm ready to lay track. Woohooo.
Mark
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Post by mrja on Feb 18, 2014 8:12:40 GMT -5
Mark, What I like to do to roadbed track is scrub the roadbed with a solution of water and dishwasher detergent to remove any remaining mold release on the roadbed (usual suspect when paint and glue don't stick). Then I use a 1:20 solution of India ink and alcohol to stain the roadbed a bit. Paint the rails rust, add a diffuse line of Grimy Black down the center.Lay the track and add ballast with wet water and glue. My main interest in ballast is just the outside edges, enough to add real texture to the roadbed. Mark Photos, Mark... or, I just can't believe you.  |
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Post by markm on Feb 18, 2014 10:48:03 GMT -5
Mark,
Nothing wrong with the "N" word in this case. Let's face it, there is not a lot of documentation on how to build in Z. When I built my first layout, the only resource was Greenberg's Guide to Z (http://www.guidetozscale.com/index.html) and a lot of guessing coming from S scale. A lot of the techniques are the same in all scales, but in Z one has to be much more careful. I glued several of my first turnouts solid, so I know.
I haven't had problems with the glue sticking. It seems to like the pattern recesses to stick to. I use a syringe that's made for cleaning ear canals to apply the glue and work in real small sections.
I like the Rokuhan turnouts, they work well with all my rolling stock. In some sections of my layout, I'm using the same technique you're planning: a turnout with the adapter plates. I'm currently playing with the new double slip turnout and am impressed.
JA:
If you really want photos, I'll try this weekend. I'm afraid I've never been good at imaging my modeling work...my thumb can cover up so much in Z!
Mark
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Post by boxcarwilly on Feb 21, 2014 18:18:39 GMT -5
I don't use these turnouts myself as they aren't compatible with Atlas controllers or my other electrics, however, on the subject of ballasting, I have found a quick and easy way to lay ballast all around the outside of my MTL turnouts without interfering with the slide mechanism. I take pieces of very thin hard plastic, like that from a cover of a box or something like that, cut it into fine strips about 2 inches long which is all one needs to cover the slide mechanism on both sides of the turnout. Then with a flat blade, I punch a trench in the base right up close to the plastic roadbed of the turnout. I make it deep enough to slide the plastic strip down into the trench but still leave at least 1/8" above the base. You could also bring it up even with the top of the roadbed if desired. Make sure it's straight and not sitting at an outward angle. Then I mix up some scenic cement and alcohol, (Not the kind you drink, that wold be a waste) and with a medium artists brush I spread it liberally along the base and side of the plastic roadbed the full length of the turnout on both outside edges including the plastic strips. Then with a squeeze bottle full of grey or whatever colour ballast you want to use, I apply the ballast to the mixture moving the squeeze bottle backward and squeezing gently as I go. There will be some overspray but that's OK. Looks more realistic that way. You can put on as little or as much as you like. I generally just put on enough to come up to the top of the plastic roadbed with the occasional extra here and there. I just do one side at a time. Once that is in place, I take an eye dropper, and I apply drops of the same mixture as before along the ballast and let it soak in. If the ballast runs a bit, that's OK you can put a bit more in that spot and add some mixture to hold it in place. Once it dries, usually overnight I give it, it is hard as a rock so to speak, but not so much that it can't be removed by gently lifting the track with a knife. This works great for any section of track including turnouts, crossings, etc. I use Rohukan expansion tracks for bridging my modules and the plastic strips are great for use in putting ballast along the section that slides and along the section where the module tracks join. Works great and camouflages the slide and joints. I fine that depending on the track you use, I use MTL track exclusively, I pin my track so it doesn't move while ballasting. Then once the ballast dries, I remove the pins and Bob's your uncle.
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Post by boxcarwilly on Feb 21, 2014 18:21:54 GMT -5
One thing I forgot to mention. Since I use MTL turnouts, I don't put ballast inside the track or anywhere near the points or mechanism. If you use Marklin or any turnouts with built in roadbed, then you have to exercise extreme caution so as not to foul the points.
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Post by markm on Feb 22, 2014 1:12:52 GMT -5
Willy,
That's a really good technique, I'll have to practice it a bit this week on some display track I'm working on.
Mark
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Post by boxcarwilly on Feb 23, 2014 11:43:29 GMT -5
Mark,
When you use a squeeze bottle to apply the ballast I use one with a nozzle that has an opening at least 1/8". Then I tilt the bottle up with the bottom rim resting on the track and the nozzle facing out toward the base and roadbed. The ballast should flow out on it's own but sometimes a gentle squeeze is necessary. Not too much or the force with blow the ballast everywhere. If the nozzle clogs up, which it will, I take a screw or nail and push it down the nozzle to unclog it, and then continue. I do one side at a time moving the bottle backward at a slow but steady pace. You may have to stop from time to time to cover any one area with more then you need for whatever reason.
On the plastic strips, I use plastic covers from things like Christmas card boxes. They are strong, yet flexible enough that you can cut them with scissors and bend them to fit any configuration you like. Experiment first to see how it works. It took me a little bit to get them to do what I wanted them to and then to get the ballast to work around them, but once you get the knack, hey does it work great!
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