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Post by gyroflyer on Jan 28, 2014 4:58:16 GMT -5
Hi,
I'm just getting ready to lay some flex track and I had just read somewhere that it is recommend(in Z)to cut the plastic tie spacers every so often, depending on the curve size, on the outer edge of flex track. All of my N scale layouts were done with flex track and I've never done this. In fact, I've never heard of doing this. For you who have used flex track in the Z world, what is you opinion?
Mark
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Post by rvn2001 on Jan 28, 2014 9:56:45 GMT -5
Hi Mark,
There should be no reason to have to cut the plastic tie spacers every so often. The MTL and Peco flex-track that I have here in my hand have already done that for us.......that's what makes it flex. It's been a long time since I've had any Marklin flex track so I don't remember how their tie spacers are. I know that I've used it though without doing anything to the tie spacers.
Flex away,
Thom Welsch
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Post by markm on Jan 28, 2014 15:12:38 GMT -5
Mark,
As I recall, you're using MTL or Peco flex. For those, in my experience, you shouldn't have to cut the spacers unless you're doing a tight curve. You'll know when you need to cut one: when the track won't stay flexed. As I recall for the Marklin, the first few end spacers don't flex and frequently need to be cut.
Hopes this helps,
Mark
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Post by shamoo737 on Jan 28, 2014 15:30:47 GMT -5
With Marklin's flex track, you have to cut it to bend it. Just like the expansion track. If you want to stretch it, cut it. Marklin flex its only good for straights, because it doesn't like to stay bend.
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Post by Rob Albritton on Jan 29, 2014 10:27:45 GMT -5
With Marklin's flex track, you have to cut it to bend it. Just like the expansion track. If you want to stretch it, cut it. Marklin flex its only good for straights, because it doesn't like to stay bend. Maybe I'm nuts, but I actually really like Marklin"s "Flex" track. But you are correct, it is really just a big piece of 660mm straight track. here's what I do: 1) Take the rails out of the plastic ties 2) Use a roller bender to bend the exact radius I want into each rail. 3) Nip a few connectors of the plastic on the OUTSIDE of the curve to expand the plastic roadbed to match the rail radius. 4) Take a few ties out of the middle of the plasitc roadbed piece 5) Cut short the inner rail with a rail nipper to match the radius of the curve 6) put it all back together Sounds complex, but it's not that hard, and I wind up with bullet proof curves. Solid, don't move, heavy rail. Great for modules at train shows. It's like your making your own snap track, but with a heck of a lot less rail joiners. Best, -Robert AZL |
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Post by shamoo737 on Jan 29, 2014 13:41:32 GMT -5
Well, if I was going to all that trouble, I might as well go with Fastrack curve jigs. The rails come in 36" lengths, lasersticks and a rail bender. By the way, I think all z scalers are little nuts to love something so small.  |
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Post by Rob Albritton on Jan 29, 2014 16:00:24 GMT -5
Hi Moo, Yeah - it's just my fear of soldering irons close to rails that makes me go the Marklin route. (And I think it's a fair bit quicker!) I can bend a track section in under 5 minutes - not sure the Fastrack system would let me keep moving that quickly. Besides, if the tie spacing wasn't all messed up (AKA Marklin track) I wouldn't really know if I was working in Z scale!  And yes - we are nuts - and damn proud of it! Best, -Robert |
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Post by shamoo737 on Jan 29, 2014 16:10:03 GMT -5
Rob, stop talking about track and start releasing the CSX SD70. I know you have it in your office, and you are delaying the release to drive me crazy. John |
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Post by Rob Albritton on Jan 29, 2014 19:59:03 GMT -5
Have you been peeking in the office windows? ... again?
Best,
-Robert
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Post by Kez on Jan 29, 2014 23:22:14 GMT -5
Rob, stop talking about track and start releasing the CSX SD70. I know you have it in your office, and you are delaying the release to drive me crazy. John John, I'm sorry to be the one to inform you, but they cancelled the SD70 in CSX. Too much demand for NS! hehehe  |
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Post by markm on Jan 30, 2014 22:34:35 GMT -5
Hadn't you guys heard: the SD70s are on a slow boat from China...we hope.
Getting back on track...
If I were doing Fastrack, I'd consider using a solder reflow technique. You'd use a paste solder drop on the rail where the tie goes, place the tie on the paste, place the whole assembly into a slightly modified toaster oven and 5 minutes later you have track. Don't know if anyone has tried it.
Mark a couple of additional thoughts on laying flex in Z. Keep a couple of test trucks with metal wheel you know are in gauge to frequently test while laying. I found it surprising how many imperfections seem to show up when laying a long section of track.
Mark
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Post by shamoo737 on Jan 30, 2014 22:48:00 GMT -5
John, I'm sorry to be the one to inform you, but they cancelled the SD70 in CSX. Too much demand for NS!Because NS makes a perfect stripper. Nobody in their right mind would strip a CSX. hehehe |
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Post by Rob Albritton on Jan 31, 2014 11:02:44 GMT -5
I found it surprising how many imperfections seem to show up when laying a long section of track. Mark I think that's why I like the Marklin stuff. Stays straight as an arrow - if you want it to. In my experience it is easier to put a bend in a something than to straighten out a kink. |
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Post by shamoo737 on Jan 31, 2014 13:40:08 GMT -5
I am thinking of making a imperfect track and still run a train in it. I would love to do a scene where a train is limited to 10 mph due to the track condition. I think it would look great to see the engines and cars wobbling all over the track. |
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Post by shamoo737 on Jan 31, 2014 13:41:22 GMT -5
I am thinking of making a imperfect track and still run a train in it. I would love to do a scene where a train is limited to 10 mph due to the track condition. I think it would look great to see the engines and cars wobbling all over the track. |
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