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Post by pcbpoppy on Apr 16, 2019 9:23:49 GMT -5
I use the A018 connector pin remover from Rokuhan and it works great on the turnout power connectors. Rokuhan says that it can be used on the A008 narrow feeder connector but I have been unsuccessful doing this. I contacted Rokuhan support and their response was "yes it can but it is more difficult". Now I have disassembled the "T" portion and fed wires through holes but you do have to be careful in the re-assembly and those tiny screws are susceptible to getting lost easily not to mention aligning the contacts correctly.
Has anyone here been successful using the A018 on the power feeder connector or what do you suggest? I want to be able to drill as small as a hole possible in my T-TRAK-Z modules as possible to feed the wires.
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Post by husafreak on Apr 19, 2019 11:34:08 GMT -5
If you really don't want to break out a soldering iron I was able to simulate an A018 by using metal tubing from a K&S metal tubing shapes assortment. If you can find just the right I.D. tube to collapse the pins...
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Post by husafreak on May 15, 2019 21:08:06 GMT -5
I recently bought one of those Rokuhan connector pin removal tools just out of curiosity and you are right it works great for the white connector pins but not at all for the black pins. I went through my entire stash of K&S tubing pieces and only found three that work for the black pins. And you have to put the tubing against a solid surface and drive the pin all the way into it from the wire side of the plug body before pushing the pin out with the bent Rokuhan tool. The difference in size between the Rokuhan tubing and the brass tubing is hard to measure, basically it looks like the brass tube that works for the black plugs is slightly thinner metal, so I.D. about the same and O.D. smaller.
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Post by husafreak on May 16, 2019 0:01:05 GMT -5
I can't measure the I.D. but the O.D. of the Rokuhan tube is 2.50mm/.0985" and the brass tubing (that works for the black plugs) is 2.37mm/.0935". I.D. is very close as I can use the same bent solid push pin for both with a similar fit.
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Post by pcbpoppy on May 16, 2019 6:58:19 GMT -5
I can't measure the I.D. but the O.D. of the Rokuhan tube is 2.50mm/.0985" and the brass tubing (that works for the black plugs) is 2.37mm/.0935". I.D. is very close as I can use the same bent solid push pin for both with a similar fit. Thanks for the feedback.
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Post by altunha on Aug 16, 2019 18:35:47 GMT -5
I use the A018 connector pin remover from Rokuhan and it works great on the turnout power connectors. Rokuhan says that it can be used on the A008 narrow feeder connector but I have been unsuccessful doing this. I contacted Rokuhan support and their response was "yes it can but it is more difficult". Now I have disassembled the "T" portion and fed wires through holes but you do have to be careful in the re-assembly and those tiny screws are susceptible to getting lost easily not to mention aligning the contacts correctly.
Has anyone here been successful using the A018 on the power feeder connector or what do you suggest? I want to be able to drill as small as a hole possible in my T-TRAK-Z modules as possible to feed the wires.
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Post by altunha on Aug 16, 2019 18:47:31 GMT -5
Today, as I was getting my wiring moved to below the layout table, I found that it was indeed easy to remove the turnouts pins, but I was not successful in removing the narrow feeder pins, as you mentioned. I almost broke them, trying, so now that I have read your post, it now makes sense.
I decided to disassemble the ‘T’, which allowed me to remove the box in order to fit the wires through the holes that I had drilled through the benchwork But yes, those itty bitty screws are a bugger, aren’t they?!?
Well, I am ready to attach the wiring beneath the layout and get the power flowing!
😊
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2019 1:49:23 GMT -5
You should think about cutting the wires (but I am afraid that this cancels the guarantee for the turnouts) ; so You could thread both ends through the holes and use dominoes, maybe add additional sections if the wires are too short ; You should add " ferrules" (look for the correct diameter) on the wires before You insert them into the corresponding holes at the dominoes. My turnouts are connected this way under the base plate (but I use a "non-Rokuhan" switching system, adapted from Kato's, to operate them).
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Post by pcbpoppy on Aug 17, 2019 5:27:49 GMT -5
You should think about cutting the wires (but I am afraid that this cancels the guarantee for the turnouts) ; so You could thread both ends through the holes and use dominoes, maybe add additional sections if the wires are too short ; You should add " ferrules" (look for the correct diameter) on the wires before You insert them into the corresponding holes at the dominoes. My turnouts are connected this way under the base plate (but I use a "non-Rokuhan" switching system, adapted from Kato's, to operate them). alberich, the connectors for the turnouts are easily removed using the tool so no need to cut the wire for them. It's the black connector for the track power feeders that is a pain and very difficult to remove using the tool. Rokuhan has told me in an email it could be done but difficult. I have only been able to remove one so far out of many.
My solution now is cut the track feeder wire(part no. A008) and pass through a 3/32 hole and then splice back together from underneath.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 17, 2019 10:11:17 GMT -5
OK, but don't forget the ferrules if You use dominoes, wires are very thin and smooth ; the other way would be to solder them together again, and insulate with heat-shrink sleeves, these add mechanical stability, too !
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