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Post by domi on Apr 19, 2018 9:34:05 GMT -5
Hi gang. First I’d like to give Rob Kluz and all the folks at AZL all my thanks and greeting for sending me that fast chassis halves for my broken GP38. But as now I’m the happy owner of a fair inventory of spare parts, all of them adequately assembled shaping a chassis, I’m just needing a procedure to follow. Especially motor’s positionning in order to follow fair polarity, for the loco running in the good direction. I’ve searched something looking like an instruction sheet on AZL website, but I didn’t find any. Any trick helping me to reassemble my chassis would be welcome. Dom
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Post by domi on Apr 21, 2018 4:55:17 GMT -5
Hi guys, no hint ? Dom
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Post by dazed on Apr 21, 2018 16:02:06 GMT -5
Hi Dom, I have the same problem. I was just gonna (a) wait for someone else to respond to your post or (b) just look at one of my other GP38's for inspiration. I'd be happy to help at that point once I have experience with it, but right now I have nothing to contribute.
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Post by cwrr on Apr 21, 2018 19:23:37 GMT -5
I've only taken of my Milw GP38's shells twice-too scared to mess with anything else!!
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Post by domi on Apr 22, 2018 6:27:46 GMT -5
Ok guys, thanks for your replies anyway...
Dom
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Post by ugeesta on Apr 22, 2018 19:52:53 GMT -5
I too have a parts box of the GP-38 too. One side of the frame crumbled and the half that Rob sent me was a different size than the original frame side so the two won’t go together. I just gave up and stuck the damn thing in the closet.
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Post by BAZman on Apr 24, 2018 0:08:49 GMT -5
if someone does not answer, I'll try and get one out to pop the shell Tuesday evening (Sorry Dom, your early Wednesday may not blossom all that well).
Someone will find an identifiable detail or mark. For DCC, it doesn't matter. Just change the NDOT (Normal Direction of Travel). You have to flip the lights too ;(
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Post by domi on Apr 24, 2018 9:47:45 GMT -5
Thank you so much Jeff, but I don’t want you to disassemble/reassemble one of your chassis just to help me.... Provided we have been a good number of GP38 owners to experience the crumbled chassis problem, I’m still in hope AZL will provide an instruction sheet or a detailed procedure one of these days. Dom
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Post by BAZman on Apr 25, 2018 0:04:30 GMT -5
Dom, spares are not where I thought and full locos are stacked away. I'm look for pix but like Shamoo mentioned, I believe it can only go in one way, shape of the motor ends, plastic saddle ? I'll look for the pix. Like these !!! www.azlforum.com/thread/978/weird-problem-3-gp38s?page=1
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Post by emaley on Apr 25, 2018 9:52:21 GMT -5
BAZman is correct. The motor will only go in one way. The motor tabs go up. Polarity will be correct. Just go slow and don't force anything.
Trey
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Post by bnsantaray on Apr 25, 2018 13:56:43 GMT -5
As a modeler with ARED , I did the change with succes after receiving 2 set of frames from Rob
The engine is working on the railraod now
Raymond
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Post by tjdreams on Apr 25, 2018 15:46:05 GMT -5
Well it looks like i also have a couple First Gen GP38-2's that have fallen victim to the Zinc Pest issue. And one has provided a unique opportunity to take some close up pic's from a cut away point of view that just can't see otherwise. First up is a picture of the circuit board in place but not making proper contact with the motor tabs. Note the brass tab from the underside of the board in the back is next to the silver motor tab not touching it as the front tab is here is another pic with the front tab not making proper contact
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Post by tjdreams on Apr 25, 2018 15:53:36 GMT -5
Both of the brass tabs from the underside of the board should be making contact to the edge of the motor tabs as seen in these pic's David
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Post by tjdreams on Apr 25, 2018 16:04:43 GMT -5
You should also have a small piece of Kapton tape slid down between the frame half and the motor tab. This little piece of tape is particularly important if your running DCC, If the motor tab or the bord tab come into contact with the side frame it could short out and Fry your Decode. Here are 2 pictures, The first one with the tape removed and and the 2nd one with it in place.
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Post by BAZman on Apr 25, 2018 19:54:06 GMT -5
Also, DO NOT TRY AND BEND THE MOTOR TABS !!! It will screw up the motor poles.
Most of the PC board I have seen were well centered, never off to the sides. But they can be close to the side frames so place a piece of Kapton (orange, high temperature tape) or simple black electrical tape or Styrene strip.
The DCC boards are a different story. Even though the PC board tabs look the same as the DC version, many barely touch the motors (the GP-38 motor is the best, whereas the SD-45 and other later motor tabs have a flat top). This makes it harder to get the tabs to make contact with the motor tabs. On the SD45, SD70ACe and new ES44's, there isn't the wide 'slot' under the PC board do both the Digitrax and TCS decoder's components touch the frame an force the PC board to bow up in the tab area, making it additionally harder to make contact.
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