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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2020 12:40:41 GMT -5
The platforms are at the same level as the wooden base of the track, the concrete blocks compensate the additional height of the Rokuhan ballast ; of course, I will add a relay box, probably on the opposite side of the hill, where there is more room (I think one is enough for both signals ? ) ...
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Post by markm on Jan 23, 2020 12:21:28 GMT -5
While doing some research, I ran across this image that may help in detailing your signals:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 28, 2020 5:29:59 GMT -5
Thanks, I see that this image is from PRR. So I know that one relay box is enough for both signals ...
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2020 9:02:56 GMT -5
Hotel ... Not yet finished. Originally, "New England House" in Z by Stony Smith at Shapeways. Windows glazing added (with printed "frames"). Stairs 3D-printed. Swimming pool by Klingenhoefer, modified. There will be some benches, tables and trees added in front of the pool on the first picture. Look at the hotel's name : "Bates Hotel" ; is there a "shower" in each room ?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2020 3:33:31 GMT -5
The tunnels on the left hand side (landscape not completely finished, and track not ballasted). First I wanted use rock portals but I had issues to integrate them with the landscape ; so finally all portals will be concrete versions (DeBenLLC)
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Post by markm on Apr 10, 2020 8:59:52 GMT -5
The portals look good. Anxious to see how they look when the hills are landscaped. Are you planning for green grass, bushes, trees, or some combination? Now that you have tunnels there is an interesting accessory for them: a tell-tale: In the early days of railroading when a brakeman had to walk on top of cars to set the brakes, these were place before tunnels to protect him from low clearance. Into the 20th century the need for them disappeared with air brakes, but they could still be seen into the 1960s and even today on rare, remote locations. If you are running boxcars with a catwalk and roof mounted brake wheels, your railroad might very well have them.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2020 9:39:32 GMT -5
Thanks Mark for Your answer ; yes, since I am not modelling Arizona but Massachusets (with NYC and NH), there will be many "green add-ons", I think especially more than 1000 (!) trees, but I am waiting for the basic structure of the landscape to be finished, the hill in the inner curve on the left-hand side (with the forrestry tower on top and the sixth tunnel portal) and the village near the upper station (with the factory and the hotel) are still "waiting" ; because I will use most "chinese trees" (fortunately I have already bought them via the Bay), I ordered at my local store (which is still delivering, and has enough stock) several variants of green (military) Tamiya-sprays, so I can modify the colour of the trees (planting them in groups into foam to the limit of the "leaves" , out of the layout of course) to avoid a "clone-like" aspect. About Your warning structures, I am afraid that Z is a little bit too small for them, and I wonder if there were still many "brakemen" walking on top of the cars in the 60's ...
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2020 12:17:39 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Jun 23, 2020 12:25:45 GMT -5
The present situation (continued) The tools and parts are placed ... under the layout ! Sorry for the "scrap" of foam on the floor, it will be removed in a near future ... But now I see which buildings are still missing for the town !
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Post by markm on Jun 24, 2020 10:38:06 GMT -5
Looks like it's coming along nicely. It might be useful to take a couple of track-level images to see how build height and topography work.
A couple of layout thoughts. City blocks are typically 100 feet long with a 20-30 foot street separating them. Downtown building here typically don't have spacing between buildings, particularly if there are service alleys. Homes typically have 10-20 foot separations and a 20 foot setback from the street.
Mark
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Post by Deleted on Jun 24, 2020 16:24:15 GMT -5
Thanks Mark ... Concerning Rokuhan buildings, it is not possible to "attach" them without some milling work, and I am afraid that my Proxxon MF70 with minimum 5000 RpM would melt the plastic (it does with Evergreen, but not with Faller and Kibri) ; and it would only be possible for buildings with the same height, otherwise the windows of the 3rd floor would be partially masked ; so they will be installed "single", a street of 20 feet would be about 2.5 to 3 cm in width, thats OK ; I will add 1 cm for the sidewalk on each side (replacing the original grey "ground plates" ) ; and about the 2 groups of 3 buildings, left of the "town station", they were sold attached at Shapeways. Near the church I will put the "town hall", for this purpose I will use the County Courthouse, again at Shapeways.
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Post by markm on Jun 25, 2020 10:16:44 GMT -5
I understand. Personally, I prefer using hand tools when working on Z items and if I were to try to cut the base, would probably use a stiff-back saw. Perhaps the best thing for you is that you are modeling an east coast town: generally older and less tied to standards than we are in the west. So as long as it looks good...
I'm afraid I don't have much experience with the Rokuhan buildings. I bought one, S033 office building as I recall, more out of curiosity than actual need. Interesting snap together design and it could be reassembled without the base. Maybe an option for your buildings?
It will be interesting to see future progress, particularly some indication of the streets and roads.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2020 11:41:37 GMT -5
The problem is not the base, I saw very well that it's only snapped in. More annoying is the fact that side walls are not "flat", so I can't glue them together without leaving some gaps.
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Post by rvn2001 on Jun 25, 2020 11:59:41 GMT -5
I moved Rokuhan building walls to different locations by removing the tabs on the walls and glueing them together in their new location.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 25, 2020 12:35:52 GMT -5
The problem is related with the reliefs, especially of cornices ...
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