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Post by neverland on Nov 17, 2017 6:08:12 GMT -5
Okay, I just bought some Peco flex track for my new layout, a departure from the fixed Marklin track I've used in the past. With Marklin, I used Itty Bitty's cork roadbed, notching the strips on curves until the cork strips would form to the desired radius. It was time-consuming but looks good.
With flex track there will be several gradual curves & turns so I'm wondering if there's a better way and/or product to use as roadbed?
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Post by dave on Nov 17, 2017 8:19:29 GMT -5
If you wanted a little wider roadbed, you could use N-scale cork. If you using think foam (1" - 2") as your layout, you could glue track directly to the foam. I was looking at the IBL website and the Z-scale is thinner (2.4mm) than the N-scale (3mm) so that would be a plus for me.
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Post by markm on Nov 17, 2017 8:32:23 GMT -5
I've always used 1/8" thick sheet cork. Build a cutting tool from a block of wood with a 30 degree slope on one side and mount a shop knife blade to that side. Stain it with black or brown India ink.
Mark
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Post by dazed on Nov 17, 2017 8:36:57 GMT -5
I have had the same question. I worry about the availability of the IBL roadbed long-term. I just sent an e-mail to Midwest Cork telling them about the new Atlas track and seeing if they thought it would be feasible to produce some Z-scale roadbed. Anxiously awaiting their response...
Doug
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Post by neverland on Nov 17, 2017 13:47:07 GMT -5
I have had the same question. I worry about the availability of the IBL roadbed long-term. I just sent an e-mail to Midwest Cork telling them about the new Atlas track and seeing if they thought it would be feasible to produce some Z-scale roadbed. Anxiously awaiting their response... Doug Will be interested to hear what they say. |
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Post by neverland on Nov 17, 2017 13:49:48 GMT -5
I've always used 1/8" thick sheet cork. Build a cutting tool from a block of wood with a 30 degree slope on one side and mount a shop knife blade to that side. Stain it with black or brown India ink. Mark Congrats on your Tycoon status! Lol!! I have a few rolls of 1/8" cork but worry I won't be able to cut slopes properly. Do you really need slopes if you ballast over it anyway? |
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Post by neverland on Nov 17, 2017 13:55:00 GMT -5
If you wanted a little wider roadbed, you could use N-scale cork. If you using think foam (1" - 2") as your layout, you could glue track directly to the foam. I was looking at the IBL website and the Z-scale is thinner (2.4mm) than the N-scale (3mm) so that would be a plus for me. I plan to use 1" foam as "ground zero" for the tracks and build up the terrain around it, so I could glue the tracks directly onto the foam. IBL is scare & expensive. Deb |
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Post by tjdreams on Nov 17, 2017 16:34:19 GMT -5
I picked up a 2'x 4' rolls of 2.5mm natural cork. Cut it into 2 foot long strips using a old metal yard stick as a straight edge and box cutter. Glued it down with square edges laid my track over it and ballasted letting the ballast from the slope. A pic of the finished results so you can judge the results for yourself.  |
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Post by neverland on Nov 17, 2017 20:18:26 GMT -5
I picked up a 2'x 4' rolls of 2.5mm natural cork. Cut it into 2 foot long strips using a old metal yard stick as a straight edge and box cutter. Glued it down with square edges laid my track over it and ballasted letting the ballast from the slope. A pic of the finished results so you can judge the results for yourself. View AttachmentVery nice! |
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Post by markm on Nov 18, 2017 12:30:46 GMT -5
Actually cutting the cork is easy if you build a tool. The hardest part is learning to make a plunge cut on the slant. If you have a 1:1 print of your curves, you can cut them exactly as needed, which I would think is easier than cutting the notches. I don't know if you really need to slope, but I would think putting a layer of ballast on the slope than building the slope with ballast and it saves on ballast material.
Mark
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Post by markm on Nov 18, 2017 12:50:00 GMT -5
Congrats on your Tycoon status! Lol!! Thanks...so what to I win? |
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 24, 2019 14:08:35 GMT -5
So Itty Bitty Lines seems to have gone missing in action. They say they are away and hope to re-open in November, but that gives me concerns.
I’ve been a massive consumer of their cork roadbed. Does anyone have any information about IBL?
Are there any alternatives?
Or am I about to go create some jigs and go into production?
Best
Rob
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Post by pray59 on Nov 24, 2019 22:44:58 GMT -5
I have always used 1/2 a strip of N Scale Midwest Cork. It's a bit thicker than Itty Bitty Lines, but I can always get it at any Hobby Town, along with Walthers Goo. I use Goo to glue the cork down, and to glue my track to the cork. I just inscrew the cap off the Goo, hold the tube nozzle down flat against the train board, and ever so thinly apply, letting it leave a super thin "Snail Trail" of Goo. I let it sit a minute or two to get tacky, then apply the cork, wiggle it in to set it, and hold for a couple seconds and it's down. I can apply the track next, or elect to sand the cork height to match that of Itty Bitty Lines, as I usually do in a yard area so the mainline tracks look higher than the yard tracks. If I get the Walthers Goo thin enough, then I can peel up the track and the cork to re-use if I have not yet ballasted it. If I have accidently apply too thick a bead of Goo, I just wipe it all off quickly with a paper towel, and the residual glue will still be enough to hold my cork or track down. It goes fast this way, and Midwest cork is always available and cheap because each 3 foot strip covers 6 feet on Z Scale track. Once the track is down and ballasted, it's really hard to tell I used N Scale cork instead of Z, here is a picture of painted and ballasted over N Scale cork: www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/01.135613/full&d=1569017641 |
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Post by Rob Albritton on Nov 26, 2019 16:07:40 GMT -5
Yeah, that's pretty much what I reckoned.
I've used Midwest N cork in the past, but found it a little too thick for my liking. There's also the issue of track height between modules, but let's fact it: that's pretty minor.
I'm going to try some 1/16" cork sheet and cut strips out of it. If it becomes too much of a pain in the a$$, then I'll pray for IBL's return, or admit defeat, commit blasphemy, and buy something labeled for N scale.
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Post by pray59 on Nov 28, 2019 10:37:29 GMT -5
If you don't mind spending the cost of a couple locomotives, you can pick up a small hobby table saw, and a small hobby thickness planer to make you cork sheet exactly how you want it, and a 5" disc sander with tilt table for edge taper profiling.
I don't tear the Midwest cork down it's center perforation because that's where the profile comes from, instead I use my mini Proxxon table sat to rip the cork exactly in half. It's a very handy scratchbuilding tool to have, this Proxxon saw. There is no ballast profile taper, but I use Arizona Rock and Mineral crushed granite for ballast, and it's jagged edges holds a very steep tight profile well.
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